Bridal Jewelry
Diamonds
The 4 Cs of Diamond Buying
One factor that determines the value of a diamond is its color. With the exception of fancy-colored diamonds, the most valuable diamonds are those with the least color. Although many people think of gem quality diamonds as colorless, completely colorless diamonds are very rare. The diamond color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). A diamond’s color is determined by a manual process of comparing the diamond to a master set. Each letter grade represents a range of color and is a measurement of how noticeable a color is. When diamonds are formed with traces of other minerals, rare and beautiful colors can result. These “fancy” colors range from blue and brilliant yellow to red, brown, pale green, pink, and violet. Because of their rarity, colored diamonds are highly desirable and typically more valuable.
A diamond’s clarity is measured by the existence or absence of visible flaws. Tiny surface blemishes or internal inclusions, even those seen only under magnification, can alter the brilliance of the diamond and thus affect its value. Clarity levels begin with flawless (FL, IF), followed by very, very slight (VVS1, VVS2), very slight (VS1, VS2), slightly included (SI1, SI2), and included (I1, I2, and I3).
While cut does include shape, in terms of the 4 Cs it refers to the proportions of the cut.
A diamond’s cut grade is an objective measure of a diamond’s light performance, or the amount of sparkle a diamond has.
A diamond’s overall proportions, as well as the size and position of its facets, make up the cut. The consistency and balance of these can greatly affect how the stone captures light and reflects it back to the eye. When a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, light enters the diamond and is returned through the top of the diamond. If a diamond is too shallow, light will escape from the bottom of the stone. If it is cut too deep, light will escape out the sides.
Studies have been conducted to find the optimum proportions of a diamond’s cut so that it has the greatest amount of sparkle. If its cut falls within these parameters, it is considered an ideal cut. Diamonds with fine proportions, symmetry and polish optimize their interaction with light and have increased brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation.
Carat refers to a diamond’s weight. One carat, the traditional unit of measurement for diamonds, is approximately 0.2 grams. You may also hear the weight of a diamond referred to in points. One carat is equivalent to 100 points, so a 75-point diamond is equal to 0.75 carats. Because they are rarer, larger diamonds have greater value per carat, so the price of a diamond rises exponentially to its size.
Diamonds
Choosing the right stone shape
Round Brilliant Cut (RBC)
The round brilliant is the most popular cut, over 75% of all diamonds sold are RBC’s. This is due, in part to the classic, timeless look and the amazing brilliance that the cut offers the stone. This comes from how the facets are placed on the stone. RBC’s have a total of 57 facets (the flat parts around the diamond); – 53 on the crown (above the middle) and 25 on the pavilion (below the middle). The amount of reflective facets allows the fire and scintillation to really shine. Overall, it’s the classic of all cuts – It looks perfect whether at a quarter-carat, 8-carat or any size in between and beyond. Since a RBC has so many facets and that means so many reflections, it’s easy to not notice as many inclusions because the scintillation will hide some of them. This means you don’t have to find a flawless, colorless diamond to get a great stone out of it. With all the fire going on too, you won’t notice if the color is a few levels below colorless. Saves you some bucks.
Fancy Cuts:
This term is going to apply to any diamond that is cut in a shape other than the round brilliant. While you might think oval is boring, it’s actually fancy!
Oval
This is a modified version of the round brilliant cut – meaning it has all the shine of a RBC, but in an oval shape. This elongation gives it a few desirable qualities, it has the fire and brilliance you want in the glitzy rock, and the oval shape gives the appearance of the stone being bigger than it actually is, so you don’t have to find as big of a diamond to be as impressive. It’s classy, and a little different, but not too out of the ordinary. While this cut was first produced in the 1700s, it really became popular in the 1950s, so a lot of these cuts are vintage inspired. This cut also has the same amount of facets as the RBC, at 58 (including the culet, the flattened point on the bottom). An oval cut really has about the same expectations in color and clarity need as a RBC, you don’t really HAVE to have a colorless, flawless diamond with this shape but be mindful about where these factors show up.
Pear
The understated yet impressive, vintage yet modern, classy yet subtle – pear. No matter what setting, this cut is a classic showstopper. The pear is a modified mix of a round brilliant and marquise cut. Traditionally this cut is worn with the point facing towards the wearer, but it’s a modern look to face it the other way. This is another cut that you can find that looks bigger than the actual weight of the stone, due to its elongated shape. There are 58 facets in a pear cut (not surprised? There’s a trend here.) Since the pear has fewer facets on its pointy end than a RB does all the way around, this is really the place you want to pay attention to when looking for inclusions. Its easier to spot them towards the tip, because there is less reflection to hide them. So just keep that in mind, but color is not going to be as much of a deal-breaker here.
Marquis
The peak of the marquise’s popularity was between 1960 to the 1980s. You probably know a grandma or two, who had this cut in their wedding set. A marquise can make a short finger look long, and a thicker finger look slim. This cut also has 58 facets, and the high amount of facets helps the scintillation and brilliance shine. While this is a very sparkly cut, this is one you can notice slight color changes in. Usually, this cut has less depth to distract than an RBC so look for one with a higher color grade, or at least make sure it’s not obvious when choosing your stone.
Princess
A square or Princess-cut diamond is what we like to call a fan favorite. Gaining popularity in the early through mid-2000’s. Here’s what’s interesting about a princess cut; diamonds are naturally found in an octahedron form – this is the shape of two pyramids stacked bottoms together. So a princess cut has the least amount of waste of any other cut. There are 57 facets in a princess cut. Color is not a game-changer here, but princess cut diamonds have a large table, so you want to make sure there are no obvious inclusions present in that area.
Cushion
There’s a few different versions of this cut but we’ll start with the traditional two – the old mine cut and the modern cushion. The old-mine-cut is over 200 years old and It has 58 facets making it look a little less refined and a little… well… chunky (yes, the technical term is chunky facets). The modern cushion typically has 64 facets, giving it a slightly more refined sparkle. The Cushion cut can be either square or more rectangle-shaped if it is elongated, but either way has its corners rounded off so it’s technically an octagon – but that’s another discussion. When set in a halo or 4-prong setting it’s hard to tell it’s not a princess cut, but the sides are more rounded (creating the cushion name, get it?)
Asscher
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher (hence the name). It is square shaped with the corners cropped off, similar to the cushion’s corners, but more defined. There are large step facets, and a high crown. This gives way to something called the “endless hallway of mirrors” effect – it looks like the mirrors are reflecting off themselves .This gives you an unobstructed view of the center, so it’s very important that there are no obvious inclusions that you can see in this area, otherwise they will be very evident. You want to make sure to find a diamond with a good color and clarity rating, since there are such long facets it’s easier to see imperfections and notice an off-color. Asscher cut diamonds have our favorite, 58 facets.
Radiant
It’s all in a name, and radiant is a proper one. With 70 facets this cut has gorgeous brilliance and scintillation. It can be square to rectangular, although ideally, it is somewhere in the middle. Since it is a little longer on two of the sides, it creates a very pleasing facet appearance. Typically the corners are cropped, but you can find some still with their points. Since there are extra facets to disperse more light, this is also a cut that can hide inclusions easily. This means you don’t have to pay for a high-grade clarity to get a good eye-clean stone.
Emerald
If you think of vintage and art deco, you probably think of this cut. Emerald cut’s became popular in the ’20s and while the popularity died down over time, they are starting to come back. While nowadays an emerald or a diamond can be found in almost any cut style you can think of, back then it was a little more challenging. Originally created in the 1500s, this was the cut style used for – you guessed it – emeralds. You’ll absolutely know this cut when you see it – a very obvious rectangle shape with long, gorgeous facets that shine and reflect to create the iconic shape we know today. However, as we learned before, the longer the facets the easier it is to see inclusions. With a large open table on top, it creates a large opening that allows one to see directly into the stone, so you don’t want any obvious imperfections inside. While the emerald is stunning, it’s not very forgiving to those pesky specs. 57 facets for these guys.
Anatomy of a Ring
Ring Styles
Solitaire settings are great if you have a stunning singular stone that has been passed down through the generations as an heirloom; many choose to display it in a classic Solitaire setting. This setting generally allows for the maximum amount of sparkle by allowing light to pass in through the bottom sections of the ring.
Channel settings are perfect for those people who are a little bit rougher with their jewelry because there are no prongs holding in the diamonds. The gold walls that make up the channel hold the diamonds in place, so this is one of the more secure styles of setting diamonds.
Because the bezel is usually above the girdle of the diamond, the stone is firmly held in place all the time. A bezel setting is very sleek and modern looking. In addition, the bezel itself is less prone to damage due to its enclosed circular nature
Three Stone settings have grown in popularity recently and contain a gem on either side of the main stone. A differentiating factor from side-stone is that the three stone tends to be made up of three similarly cut and sized stones
Split Shank also known as multi-row settings are an innovative and unique band form that takes the traditional ring and turns it on its head by forking off and encapsulating the stone it is accompanied by. These settings can be formed to be less raised than other traditional settings, which can be a huge benefit if you find having a raised stone on a band distracting.
Antique settings are a tribute to the days of yore, when the bands of rings were “antiqued” with small grooves on the side. Traditionally these bands were more utilitarian and really allowed the stone to be the centerpiece, which is why they remain popular even today. “Everything old is new again”
Traditional prong settings are classically designed, with the accenting stones being held by four, three, two or even one prong.
Halo settings are extremely eye catching and fashionable collections of stones surrounding the center stone. The surrounding stones tend to be between .05 and .25c which is a more affordable way to accomplish that eye catching couture look you’ve always wanted!
Split Shank also known as multi-row settings are an innovative and unique band form that takes the traditional ring and turns it on its head by forking off and encapsulating the stone it is accompanied by. These settings can be formed to be less raised than other traditional settings, which can be a huge benefit if you find having a raised stone on a band distracting.
Diamonds
Set your sights on settings
In a prong setting, metal prongs are used to hold up the diamond, securing it while allowing light to freely pass through. Most commonly, settings usually have either 4 prongs or 6 prongs, which can be rounded, pointed, v-shaped or flat. Prong settings are a great way to amplify the qualities of a beautiful diamond. The prongs allow a lot of light to pass through, elevating the fire and brilliance given off by the diamond.
Choosing the right number of prongs will call for some self-reflection. Four prongs mean that there is less metal on the diamond, creating better visibility for the center stone. However, they don’t hold the diamond as securely as six prongs, whereas six prongs offer better security for the diamond, giving it greater protection if it’s bumped into. However, the greater number of prongs can easily overshadow small diamonds of half a carat or less. If there is any drawback of the prong setting, it is durability. Prong settings hold the diamond quite high, which makes it easier to bump into things, or get caught on material. If the ring’s wearer has an active lifestyle, or has a career that involves putting on and taking off gloves regularly, and you feel this may be a concern, consider lower-set prongs or an alternative setting.
Prong settings can also loosen over time, causing the diamond to be less secure, so it’s important to have prong set rings inspected and maintained regularly.
A bezel setting is popular for engagement rings as it offers a modern, simple look. One of the most significant advantages of the bezel setting is how secure the stone will remain within it. The metal wraps around the gemstone or diamond-like an embrace, making removing it almost impossible without damaging the setting or the stone itself. This setting makes it ideal for those who are active and may expose their ring to more wear and tear than usual. This simple and modern style works with any style of diamond or gemstone, making them highly versatile. They offer a modern look that is perfect for those who want their engagement ring to stand out from the crowd.
However, there are also some disadvantages to consider before purchasing an engagement ring with a bezel setting. The downside of having such a secure and low-profile setting is that it can reduce the visibility of your diamond/gemstone. It can also make cleaning more difficult as dirt and debris may accumulate between the metal and stone.
Channel/Bar your center stone secures the diamond on two sides with vertical metal bars, leaving ample space for light to pass through the diamonds. While bar settings are similar to channel settings, they leave the diamond exposed on two sides, offering more visibility to the diamond, while providing additional sparkle because the stone is more exposed. One con to keep in mind is that resizing can be costly and even challenging.
